by Johanna Hellinger
I came to surfing when I was 25 in Brazil. I wanted to get in touch with the feeling my boyfriend was talking about, I could see the passion in his eyes twinkling whenever he spoke about riding a wave.
So I rented a big foam surfboard and wetsuit and paddled into the waist deep water as I was instructed. There were no real waves, but I would have a go at any whitewash that came by. I didn't manage to stand up once, but I was hooked and desperate to have another go… I didn't leave the water for 5 hours. I played in the water and let my inner child out until it was dark.
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